I recently returned from a weekend in New Orleans; all of the food was so good, I couldn't settle on just one place. NOLA is full of restaurants and cafes...and oh yeah, they've got a few bars, too. The weather was not very forgiving, as it monsooned 80% of the time I was there, but it didn't rain on our parade.
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Beer tap water fountain. |
One of the great things about New Orleans is that every place serves alcohol (including bakeries and cafes) and has a (three-hour) happy hour with amazing deals (from free appetizers to half-off alcohol). The first stop on the culinary
streetcar was
Il Posto. This is a tiny rustic Italian cafe...picture a cafe effortlessly decorated with distressed mirrors and old dining room chairs. They have quite the selection of cheese and cured meats. Every sandwich comes with a salad tossed with a very light lemon vinaigrette. The multigrain bread contained poppy seeds which added an extra crunch--poppy seeds in loaf bread was a first for me, but I loved it.
Stop two was
Sucre; the bakery at which my friend worked for a short while. It also serves alcohol and "adult" milkshakes. They have exotic chocolates (we sampled the candied violet chocolate), desserts that rival the pastries in Harrod's display cases, gelato, and macarons just like the ones I had in Paris. My friend loves the
avery, a caramel-filled dark chocolate topped with sea salt. They package the individual chocolates in a tiny pink purse for safe travels. Adorable. I also had to see if the macarons were as good as France's...New Orleans is, after all, the Paris of the States. The almond one was perfect.
Dinner was a happy hour special--half-priced pizzas and beer and wine--at
Domenica, an Italian restaurant in the Roosevelt Hotel in the central business district. It's a John Besh restaurant--he's a NOLA native and a James Beard winner. The ambiance was upscale, but the menus that doubled as placemats made it feel more homey. The pizza picks were the MUSHROOM (mushrooms, bacon, onion, and a broken poached egg in the middle) and CALABRESE (salami, mozzarella, capers, and olives), and we paired it with the Chianti...not for the sheer reason that is was the cheapest of the wines on the list...the pizzas were $6.50 during happy hour! What a steal. The crust was thin and crispy, and they were obviously hand tossed, as the shapes they took were rather organic. And I must say, egg and pizza are a surprisingly successful pair.
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Old-school Britney...there was a little bit of everything... |
We had time to kill before the Britney Spears concert--yes, I said Britney "Oops-I-Did-It-Again" Spears--so we got dessert. The peach cake with salted-caramel sauce and raspberry sorbet definitely sent us over the edge, but we were able to dance it off at Britney. Side note, I've never seen so many rompers in one place in my entire life. No lie. Not even on the racks at Forever 21.
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It finally stopped raining, so we were able to sit outside. |
Saturday, we had later lunch and that turned into a pub crawl. I was told I
had to go to two places in NOLA, and
Pat O'Briens, lovingly called Patty-O's, was a must. This, luckily, was stop number one on the pub crawl. I couldn't just go and take in the ambiance with any old drink...I
had to order a Hurricane--all 28 ounces of it. So here's photo documentation for all of you who hounded me about getting a hurricane at Pat O'Briens.
Oh, I forgot, one of the other things about NOLA is that some restaurants are BYOB. GLORIOUS. We went to
Lebanon's for dinner on Saturday. It was authentically decorated and served traditional Middle Eastern food. The hummus...oh the hummus...it was like velvet. I got the chicken tecka that came with a salad and hummus and pita. I couldn't attempt to eat one-third of it, but it was so delicious and full of garlic. fortunately, everyone's dish was equally as potent...at least I'm hoping I was in good company. And the chicken was cooked so slowly that it was fork tender. The red wine we brought was a perfect pairing--who knew!
Sunday began with brunch at
Satsuma in the Metarie--a sort-of alternative, crunchy, grungy district of New Orleans. It is populated with "shotgun houses" (one-story, narrow, and long) painted with any combinations of colors you can imagine, and we drove down Desire Street, but sadly, there's no longer a Streetcar Named Desire. Satsuma is decorated with local art and serves as many local ingredients as they can source. Brunch hit the spot. I snagged a bite of the peaches and cream pancake; all I have to say is buttery deliciousness. I had the Green Breakfast Sandwich which was whole wheat bread housing avocado mash, arugula, and a scrambled egg. The also squeeze their own juice concoctions, so of course, I got the watermelon one--watermelon lemonade!
My wonderful host made dinner on Sunday before we went to see Woody Allen's newest,
Midnight in Paris, at a swanky
movie theatre. We had sauteed onions, spinach, and white beans over whole wheat pasta. After the movie, we walked past
Jackson Square to
Cafe du Monde (second and final stop on my unanimous must-see NOLA list).
We got beignets--the french doughnut drowning in powdered sugar. It. Was. So. Good. I said it was like a funnel cake, but I was corrected. I still stand by the fact that it tastes a bit like that, but a little more doughy, because less of the surface area is fried. It still has a similar flavor. They also have famous a famous cafe au lait, but it was already 10:00 at that time. Had I ordered a cup, I would have been up until I needed to leave for the airport at 4:45. After the beignets had been devoured (mostly by me...hey, I'm only in New Orleans once in a blue moon), we all felt like we had powdered sugar from ear to ear, yet somehow we managed to leave unscathed.
Here ends my culinary tour of New Orleans, and I am sure I only saw one-hundredth (or less) of what the city has to offer! There were adorable cafes on every corner--literally. There are so many phenomenal and unique restaurants from which to choose that you rarely have to wait for a table unless you're going to one of the notable New Orleans stops. If you ever get a chance to go, please do so. It is a lively city, and I'm pretty sure it could give New York a run for it's money for the title "The City the Never Sleeps." Everyone is so laid back, too. So much spirit lies within the people and the place itself that you can't help but enjoy yourself, even when it is constantly vacillating between torrential downpour and overcast. It also helps when you have a great host who knows exactly what you like and who has lived in the city long enough to know where the hidden gems (and tourist spots) are located. I know I would not have had the same experience had I seen the city through anyone else's eyes. Everyone start planning your trip to NOLA. No matter who you are--history buff, bar hopper, food lover--you will find plenty of ways to pass the time in the Big Easy.